Tuesday, July 25, 2006

Apologizing, Liangliang style

In yesterday’, China Scene section, where The China Daily picks pieces from widely read local papers, The Qilu Evening News states:

“A high school student in Luxian County, Shandong Province, cut off part of a finger recently to show his regret for cheating his parents of money. Lianliang, 14, asked for extra 400 yuan (US$ 49, INR 2300) from his parents last week, saying that money would be used to pay next term’s tuition fees. However, Liangliang planned to spend the money on playing online games. Finding out the truth from other students, the parents were furious and scolded the boy for his dishonesty. To show how sorry he was, Liangliang grabbed a knife from the table and chopped a part of his little finger.

“The emergency surgery to reattach Liangliang’s finger cost his parents 6,000 yuan (US$740, INR 34,000).”

In any case, I think the boy is ready to be admitted to the Japanese Yakuza. Maybe he should have just asked for 3200 yuan to begin with, and used part of that money to bribe his friends. He might then have gotten entry into just about any mafia worldwide!

The Daily's main op-ed piece is by Mao Rubai, the vice-Chairman of the China Environmental Protection Union. Mao speaks of the dangers of blindly following the ‘extensive growth mode.’ More on that soon.

Sunday, July 23, 2006

The Beijing of concrete, steel and glass

What used to be a low profile skyline dotted with the occasional skyscraper is fast metamorphing into one teeming with recently completed gleaming steel and glass towers as well as many more in various stages of completion. Metal piping has replaced the old-fashioned bamboo scaffolding, and it is just as well, given how high these new towers aspire to reach. New construction is visible everywhere, but nowhere more so than in Chaoyang, Beijing’s business district, which lies to the east of the Forbidden City (still very much the geographic center of Beijing) roughly beyond the third ring road. But even up by Wudaokou, the university part of town, gleaming new apartment buildings greet commuters as they get off the number 13 subway line.

As we drive past the Beijing world trade center, Eric, my French suitemate, cannot help but remark how impressive all this construction looks. Manfred, sitting in front, points to some of the older buildings, their design suggesting a different era and vastly different social and economic priorities or circumstances. Indeed, interspersed among these gleaming new paeans to China’s burgeoning economic growth, and still holding on for dear life it would appear, are the remnants of the older Beijing—the hutongs and the communist era office and apartment blocks.

Hutongs still hold sway in some parts of downtown Beijing such as Houhai, Gulou, Andingmen, and Qianmen Dajie. But for how much longer is unclear. Already billboards and hoardings panel the Qianmen Dajie leading from the Jianlou tower to the Temple of Heaven. They hide from our view hutongs that are scheduled for demolition, while carrying pictures and representations of what will replace them: a new Wangfujing like promenade/shopping street.

Development is always welcome, and especially in country like China, whose people have suffered much in their modern history. But Eric and Manfred’s observations do focus on a salient feature of Beijing’s transformation. For, after all, who is buying these new super expensive residences or office buildings? Rich folk. From what little I have heard and read, Beijing’s older residents are being compensated (relocated) with accommodations on the outskirts. So Beijing’s demography is probably changing not in a dynamic and organic way, but in a process that could be described more as transshipment—a new wealthy group replacing the cities original inhabitants. And as Manfred is quick to point, this process is being facilitated by another huge group of people, who are neither Beijing’s old nor new residents—migrant workers.

This does raise interesting urban policy questions. Is Beijing’s development unique, or part of a more discernable process experienced or being experienced by other mega-cities? I’d imagine, to some extent such changes in the demographic and economic character of a city or parts of a city are to be expected. I need to read more about urban development.

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Polluting Heaven and Earth

The People’s Daily (online edition) carries an article today on China’s increasing soil pollution problem. Citing data gathered by the State Environmental Protection Administration (SEPA) and the Ministry of Land Resources, it states that every year about 12 million tons of grain are polluted by heavy metals, which equates to about 20 Billion yuan (about $2.5 Billion or Rs. 11,000 crore) in losses. Needless to say, public health is a major, and seemingly harder, cost to evaluate at this point. Per an ‘incomplete’ investigation, 10 million hectares of arable land in China is polluted. China’s total arable land is estimated at about 120 million hectares. Thus, almost 8.75% of China’s arable land is already poisoned. Given that in terms of arable land per capita, China is already well below the global average, this is a problem that needs to be addressed at the soonest.

The report goes on to inform us that SEPA and the Ministry of Land Resources are launching a three-year 1 billion yuan ($1.25 million, Rs. 550 crore) survey to ascertain the nature and extent of the problem. A good first step, no doubt.

Agriculture received much attention in the 20th century as people sought to understand China’s recent economic history and developmental challenges. A major contribution to was made by John Lossing Buck (Pearl S. Buck’s husband) in the 1930s. Buck’s meticulous survey provided the first insights into China’s historical agricultural practices, land use patterns, and the like. Another major study is that of Dwight Perkins whose work spanned the 600 years from the Ming (1368 CE) to the start of the Cultural Revolution (well actually 1968). Since then there have been several more localized and focused studies. And I have to admit I am a little ignorant on current agricultural practices and methods in China.

The soil pollution news serves to accentuate the environmental challenges China will increasingly have to face in the coming years. A recent NYT article spoke about the pollution in industrial and coal mining cities. And one look at Beijing’s constant grayscale sky is enough to frighten even the most stoic or nonchalant amongst us.

Monday, July 17, 2006

Stray thoughts

Warisha, who is in Srinagar, tells me that the 11/7 grenade attacks have prompted a tourist exodus of sorts. To that end I guess the attacks were a success. It is a pity, as whenever there are attempts at limping towards some semblance of recovery, there are setbacks. On the Bombay front, while there has been a lot of progress with the investigation, a resolution remains elusive. On July 12, PTI reported that Narendra Modi beseeched India and her leaders to find a common will against terrorism, which he said was no longer confined to a state or even a country. These are indeed fair points, but coming from Modi, three words keep ringing in my ears: pot, kettle, black.

On a larger level, the attacks do seem to put a damper on whatever bilateral peace process that had been in the works these past couple of years. While few doubt Pakistani complicity at some level in the attacks, the real worry is that Musharraf and his administration have increasingly lost control of the terrorist outfits and their activities. Furthermore, in recent years terrorism in J&K has come to be dominated by LeT and JeM, both of which consist primarily of people from outside J&K. Natives of the region have been increasingly marginalized. This merely serves to complicate negotiations.

The ‘big powers’ are convening in SPB for the G-8 summit. Hu Jintao is there, so is Manmohan Singh. Xinhua reports a trilateral meeting between Hu, Singh and Putin—the first of its kind. The beginning of the formation of new global economic alliances, however tentative and tenuous, it would appear.

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Spirit of Mumbai

More reports are trickling in. Apparently many terror cells have been busted in cities such as Nagpur and Delhi, with several kilos of RDX and many AK-47s seized. Wonder how soon, if at all, definitive information will be available. There was a time when terrorists would jump to claim responsibility for their heinous crimes.

LeT and Jaish-e-Mohammad seem to be the prime suspects, though both have denied culpability. Given the similarity of MOs with Madrid and London, I cannot help but wonder to what extent there are wider links. Of course India has other sources of tension as well—most notably the Naxalite movement. Was just talking with a friend in Delhi who suspects the Shiv Sena instead. While I seriously doubt they have the logistical wherewithal, let alone the gall to gamble so heavily with their political future, her suspicions do highlight how much of a problem India’s Hindu right wing nut jobs are as well. (Matter of fact, in the larger scheme of things it might not be entirely bad if the Shiv Sena and Bal Thackeray were actually involved and fingered for it, because that would effectively end their involvement in Indian politics.)

At moments like this people’s latent xenophobia seems to emerge, often being manipulated and influenced by the more openly xenophobic amongst us. I refer not just to politicians or major public figures, but also to the discourse among common folk. Furthermore, this xenophobia is often at its strongest in Diaspora communities. One of the message boards I often lurk on has seen a hail of vitriol and diatribe directed at Muslims en masse and at our friendly neighbors to the NW. Of particular interest is the fact that most of these self-confessed patriots (read Hindi-Hindutva-Heartland Heroes) reside outside India.

At least in Bombay, and in India as a whole, it seems this divisiveness is not on people’s minds. Last time round, Bombay was wracked by riots (riding as it was on a fairly pivotal event in modern Indian history—the destruction of the Babari Masjid in Ayodhya). I do hope that that experience is not repeated. The memory of 1993 and of Gujarat more recently has left deep scars, and hopefully deeper lessons. Let us hope the ‘spirit of Mumbai,’ as news channels have coined it, prevails over sectarian idiocy.

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Serial Blasts

Have spent much of last night and most of the morning reading about yesterday’s blasts in Bombay and Srinagar. While the explosions in each city were no doubt carefully orchestrated, it remains unclear at this point whether there was also intercity orchestration. The kinds of explosives used—sophisticated RDX in Bombay versus hand grenades in Srinagar—suggests differing MOs and consequently the possibility that different outfits carried them out. But even that is circumstantial and doesn’t preclude two terror groups planning the serial bombings to occur in tandem.

Reminiscent of the recent train bombings in London and Madrid, the carnage in Bombay also evokes memories of the 1993 serial bomb blasts, which left 250 dead and many injured. The death toll has risen through the night and raced past the 150 mark (last I checked, NDTV reported a figure of 172 as of Wednesday morning). Sadly, it will probably continue to rise. Of course, the number of injured and maimed is significantly higher (NDTV reports 439 as off Wednesday morning).

In 1993 Bombay and Mumbaikars showed remarkable fortitude in attempting a return to normalcy with schools, businesses and government all staying open in the immediate aftermath. It was heartening and inspiring. From what I read, the same spirit prevails now as well.

The Srinagar bombings have so far left 8 dead and many more wounded. In their intensity they don’t seem to match the Bombay blasts. The principal targets in Srinagar appear to be tourists. Newspapers state that this is the 6th attack in Kashmir since the tourist season began earlier in the spring/summer. On one level such attacks are indicative of the growing frustration perhaps with the increasing tourist presence in Srinagar.

The last 17 years have been punctuated by many terrorist activities, and in the odd case, by a total breakdown, in certain regions, of India’s civil society. Indeed, what happened in Godhra was probably the saddest indictment of India’s secular claims. For the government and the police to sit back and watch (even participate) in rioting was shameful. While India’s experiences with terrorism are not a recent phenomenon, the rise of a global terrorism anchored in Islamic fundamentalism has made the challenge all the more pressing.

More soon…

Monday, July 10, 2006

Diving queens, bull called Zidane, and football fan[atic]s

The world cup is over. The ‘diving queens’ won over the ‘lao (old) bleus’ and the best player of his generation saw red, leaving the field in disgrace. The 2006 final was a drab affair, perhaps even on par with 1994 in its ability to bore. Interestingly, Italy was present then as well. Aside from its surprises, this world cup has also seen some great goals and Bastian Schweinsteiger’s brace against Portugal provided a nice finishing flourish for the host nation and the team they support.

Zidane is not the only one to get riled up over the world cup. The China Daily (July 8-9) quoting the Fujian Daily notes: “A fight occurred between a father and son in Fujian Province when their favorite football teams clashed in the World Cup in Germany. The father was a big Argentina fan, while his son supported Germany. After Germany beat Argentina in the quarterfinals, the son commented that Argentine players performed badly during the match, which annoyed his father. The father beat his son on the bottom [emphasis mine], and his son then fought back. Local border guards were called because neighbors, hearing the commotion, thought burglars might have been in the house.” Apparently, both were let off with cautions, though their actions merited red cards.

If only I had the time to mine papers from other countries...

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Paths silken but less trodden

Today, after a gap of 44 years, the Nathu La pass that connects Sikkim to Tibet has been reopened to traffic. There is much bonhomie on either side, reflective perhaps of the increasing degree to which India and China are approaching each other with civility and common sense. The pass had been closed to traffic since the 1962 Sino-Indian war.

My first encounter with Nathu La goes back to Xth grade geography where an overtly pedantic teacher would shave off points if we got the placement of a river or, as in this case, pass wrong by a millimeter. Given that we were both (mis)placing these geographical features on a blank map of India, suffice to say river towns were frequently flooded and mountains routinely brought to their knees.

But Xth grade geography aside, the People's Daily is quick to remind us that the Nathu La pass was one of the main arteries in that most famous of overland trade routes that snaked around much of Asia. And now, that trade can be renewed. While I am sure the opening will do a great deal for Sino-Indian trade, I am more excited at the possibilities this might offer for regional development—of both Sikkim and Tibet.

Most exciting, selfishly speaking, of course, is the prospect—now firmly within the realm of the possible—of actually returning to Delhi via road. Only a few days ago, Beijing officially flagged off the first train to Lhasa. Next summer looks more and more enticing...

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

Yeh Kya Hua?

“Yeh kya hua, kaise hua, kab hua, kyon hua, jab hua, tab hua…”

So goes the famous Kishore Kumar song from Amar Prem. Rather apt given Germany’s heartbreaking exit from the WC. Ah well. It was a cracker of a match, the Italians played out of their skins, the Germans managed to trade punch for punch for the most part, but were finally undone during the climactic closing minutes. There is much to look forward to for this German team. They are young (but for the two goalies), play attractive football, and if Klinsmann hangs around, can look forward to some very productive years. Moreover, most of these players will come back older and wiser in four years, and hopefully go all the way.

Lets hope the remaining three games are as entertaining as this one was. Alright, enough lamenting and talking football, for now.

I discovered a great dish the other day. Yu xiang qiezi. Fish flavored/smelling eggplant. I have always been partial to this most regal of vegetables, and this latest discovery only adds to the long list of preparations, each delicious.

And in other news India won a test series in the West Indies after a gap of 35 years. No small achievement that. Yet given the comparative assessments of the teams going into the series I am sure many would feel somewhat cheated by the 1-0 scoreline. But a win is a win is a win.

Sunday, July 02, 2006

Don't Cry For Me Argentina...

Quite a weekend I had. Friday began with meeting up with friends—from Columbia and from Beijing—to celebrate Charlie McAeeter’s birthday. We ended up at a Xinjiang restaurant right across from the Workers Stadium (the Gongren Tiyu Chang). The food was excellent and alcohol flowed like the river Isen once it was un-dammed by the Ents. In particular, some of us decided to make the night a close encounter with local Chinese liquor, or Baijiu, as it is called. At 56% it is stronger than most hard liquor and burns your gullet on its way to damaging your kidneys. It comes in tiny 150 ml bottles and by the time we called an end to dinner, the four of us actually drinking the stuff must have shared a good 7 or 8 bottles of this most acerbic of beverages.

From the restaurant our large group, it had grown to almost 15 people, splintered. Some wanted to go dancing, others wanted to catch the Germany-Argentina QF.

Braving thunderstorms, and balancing all the food and alcohol in our bellies, Jonathan, Janet, Jen, Jeff and I (wow, I just realized I was with J-Crew for much of Friday evening) landed up at a bar in the Sanlitun area. We missed much of the first half but caught the rest of an absolutely absorbing game. Ayala scored a good goal from a well-delivered Riquelme corner. The Germans fought back superbly, and the equalizer, via a Ballack, Borowski and Klose combination, was really quite emphatic. Pekerman did make some odd substitutions in hindsight, and Lehmann was brilliant in goal to send the Argies back. Can’t say the Argentines did themselves any favors in the second half. Definitely wasn’t impressed with all the diving and time wasting the Albiceleste partook in. Still not entirely convinced with Abbondanzieri and his now I am injured and now I am not antics either. And then the melee at the end was really quite ridiculous. I am definitely not crying for Argentina.

What can one say about England? They finally played a match with some spunk and spirit, only to be destroyed by that most enduring of bugbears—a penalty shoot out. Ricardo was quite outstanding for the Portuguese, but to see Lampard and Gerrard hit such weak shots was really disappointing. If there is one lesson to be drawn from all this, it is that people should stop hyping the EPL and its players. As my Newcastle United supporting British friend Rob put it, the EPL might be amongst the most entertaining leagues around, but it is far from the best. And finally, can we please stop elevating Becks to the rarefied fields of soccer greatness—where not only does he not belong, he cannot even pretend to belong. Ironically, the one Pommy who was outstanding throughout the WC plays not in the EPL but in the Bundesliga.

Italy cruised past Ukraine, as expected. Their match-up with Germany now promises to be interesting, though I think the Germans should be able to send them home as well.

And finally, Brazil are on their way home. What an inspired 90 minutes from Zidane! Suddenly a team that looked old and beaten at the start of the tournament can almost taste a second WC win in 8 years! Fat bwoy (as I am now wont to call Ronaldo) looked lost for most the match, and grew increasingly petulant as the buzzer approached. His dives, and there were quite a few, were rather ridiculous. What was amazing about the French performance was how they shutout the Brazilian midfield. Maybe having Ronaldinho playing forward wasn’t the brightest of ideas to begin with. Oh well, cannot complain. I wanted Brazil sent home, and the Les Bleus obliged.

Four teams and a total of four matches left to play. Who will win this all European of tussles?