The Beijing of concrete, steel and glass

What used to be a low profile skyline dotted with the occasional skyscraper is fast metamorphing into one teeming with recently completed gleaming steel and glass towers as well as many more in various stages of completion. Metal piping has replaced the old-fashioned bamboo scaffolding, and it is just as well, given how high these new towers aspire to reach. New construction is visible everywhere, but nowhere more so than in Chaoyang, Beijing’s business district, which lies to the east of the Forbidden City (still very much the geographic center of Beijing) roughly beyond the third ring road. But even up by Wudaokou, the university part of town, gleaming new apartment buildings greet commuters as they get off the number 13 subway line.

As we drive past the Beijing world trade center, Eric, my French suitemate, cannot help but remark how impressive all this construction looks. Manfred, sitting in front, points to some of the older buildings, their design suggesting a different era and vastly different social and economic priorities or circumstances. Indeed, interspersed among these gleaming new paeans to China’s burgeoning economic growth, and still holding on for dear life it would appear, are the remnants of the older Beijing—the hutongs and the communist era office and apartment blocks.

Hutongs still hold sway in some parts of downtown Beijing such as Houhai, Gulou, Andingmen, and Qianmen Dajie. But for how much longer is unclear. Already billboards and hoardings panel the Qianmen Dajie leading from the Jianlou tower to the Temple of Heaven. They hide from our view hutongs that are scheduled for demolition, while carrying pictures and representations of what will replace them: a new Wangfujing like promenade/shopping street.

Development is always welcome, and especially in country like China, whose people have suffered much in their modern history. But Eric and Manfred’s observations do focus on a salient feature of Beijing’s transformation. For, after all, who is buying these new super expensive residences or office buildings? Rich folk. From what little I have heard and read, Beijing’s older residents are being compensated (relocated) with accommodations on the outskirts. So Beijing’s demography is probably changing not in a dynamic and organic way, but in a process that could be described more as transshipment—a new wealthy group replacing the cities original inhabitants. And as Manfred is quick to point, this process is being facilitated by another huge group of people, who are neither Beijing’s old nor new residents—migrant workers.

This does raise interesting urban policy questions. Is Beijing’s development unique, or part of a more discernable process experienced or being experienced by other mega-cities? I’d imagine, to some extent such changes in the demographic and economic character of a city or parts of a city are to be expected. I need to read more about urban development.